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Business New Haven
4/20/1998
By: Angelina Anderman
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New Omni eatery
aims high - and mostly hits mark
Galileo's Restaurant, Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale, 155 Temple Street, New Haven (203-974-6859). Open daily 6-10:30 a.m. (breakfast); 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. (lunch); 5:30-10 p.m. (dinner, until 11 p.m. Fri-Sat).
Although the Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale opened for guests earlier this year, it was not until last month that non-resident diners were welcomed to its rooftop restaurant, Galileo's. The breaking-in period allowed management a chance to acquaint the predominately local staff with the vagaries of hotel and restaurant service. For the most part, the training shows signs of progress throughout the property, but they still have a way to go. That's understandable when everything - and everyone - is brand new.
For those who remember the old Park Plaza, you have a treat in store. The new Omni has made the most of its structural confines with “go-for-broke” décor. Where shabby once proliferated, luxury now reigns. Galileo's shares the top floor with a bar and a private dining/meeting room. Views of New Haven Harbor and the Green, with Yale's venerable spires and towers, give diners a chance to drink in a magical New panorama. The eye can easily focus over the nasty patches and see only beauty, especially in the spring.
The interior scene is pretty good, too. Lots of cherry paneling and tables recall a club atmosphere with heavy, padded chairs. Tapestry and chintz prints plus a dark red patterned carpet complement the aubergine walls.
Nearly all the tables have window views. We were led immediately to ours by a friendly hostess who happily refrained from asking if we had reservations - always a turnoff when there are obviously tables available. Our waiter, young Michael, manifested quickly with a basket of interesting multigrain rolls and a fresh wedge of butter, then recited the specials which included items like snapper and lobster ravioli. After a discourse on the distinctions between Perrier and San Pellegrino waters, we settled on the latter ($2.25) plus a soda ($1.50).
The menu is both interesting and creatively written, leaving the reader with lots of possibilities. We started with roasted lobster-and-corn chowder, a large soup plate for $5.25. It was creamy and delicious, with lumps of lobster, but too tepid for our liking. We know chowders are not meant to be served piping hot, but warm would have been nice.
An order of cold smoked New England duck breast ($7.95) arrived beautifully fanned out on a decorated plate with roasted pear jam over corn spoon bread. It was so tender with thick, juicy, pink slices that we could not believe that it was not ham. We questioned Michael, who returned from the (doubtless aggrieved) chef with a whole smoked duck breast on a platter for our inspection. As the saying of the moment goes, If it looks like a duck and walks like a duck - it probably is duck.
For our main courses we selected a Cobb smoked turkey breast club sandwich on multigrain toast with lettuce, tomato sprouts and shreds of brie with honey Dijon mayonnaise ($8.95). It came with hand-cut “baton” fries and a pickle. Always a good trial item for a new kitchen, the sandwich was moist and plentiful (we took a quarter home in a fancy carrier) but the fries were petrified, tasteless and greaseless (though crispy).
Grilled breast of chicken with roasted walnuts and Calvados apples over greens ($9.95) was beautifully presented. The chicken was tender and moist and the garnish was well chosen and prepared. It came with an order of fine spring asparagus, perfectly al dente. Still, the accompanying mashed potatoes, while attractive looking, were tepid.
Our last order was Maine lobster cakes with braised fennel remoulade ($10.95). Two plump, juicy beauties filled with lobster meat were accompanied by the same asparagus and the same pretty but cold mashed potatoes. Fortunately, they did not spoil the enjoyment of either dish.
The menu, while not excessive, offers a good range of meat, fish and salad dishes for between $4.75 and $14.95. The predominately Californian wine list offers glasses between $4.75 and $8.75 and bottles for between $20 and $50.
Desserts can be had from $3.25 for sorbet or ice cream to $5 for white chocolate cheesecake. Raspberry caramel custard sounded exciting for $4.50. But we refrained and ordered cappuccinos ($2.75) and our check.
There is no question that Galileo's has added a touch of professionalism and elegance to the downtown New Haven dining scene. It's a much-needed “important business lunch” venue, not pretentious, not ostentatious, just the chance to show off New Haven at its best.
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