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Shipshape in Clinton
Aqua's marine theme can't obscure culinary creativity
Aqua, 34 Riverside Drive (Cedar Island Marina), Clinton (860-664-3788). Open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon-Thurs; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fri-Sat; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun. Luncheon menu served until 5 p.m. daily.
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Business New Haven
9/22/1997
By: Angelina Anderman
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Aqua is the progeny of a fortuitous partnership between a talented chef, Robert Johnson, and an efficient business manager, Garth Corbett. Another relaxing lunch venue on the water, Aqua is located at Cedar Island Marina in Clinton, home to many past eateries. Aqua has already attracted the approving attention of the New York Times restaurant critic, so we thought it definitely worth a whirl.
Chef Johnson has quite a pedigree. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), he previously owned Branford's trendy Cibo and other award-winning eateries. Corbett has many years of prime New Haven restaurant management experience as well, coming from Entertaining Moments, proprietors of Scoozzi plus the late, lamented Bruxelles, Gentree and others.
It is hard to wax enthusiastic about Aqua's physical appearance, but if you knew the location from past incarnations you will be pleased to know that it has been spruced up a lot, painted - guess what? - aqua and sporting some spiffy new decorative touches, comfy new booths, good linen napkins and new umbrellas on the sunny outdoor deck, which is wonderful for lunching while Indian summer lingers. Naturally, the view is the main attraction and the wonderful vista across Cedar Island plus the boat traffic makes this venue one of the premier waterside eateries on the shoreline.
Aqua's lunch menu is simple but reflects the professionalism of its masters. Daily specials for both lunch and dinner make the best possible use of the freshest items. Appetizers include Maine steamers, whole fried Maine clams or fried oysters (all $6.95). A wonderful smoked fish plate with salmon, trout, shrimp and scallops with horseradish mayonnaise and dill mustard sauce ($7.50) is a firm favorite and great to share. Roasted Portobello mushroom with goat cheese or fried calamari, crisp and light, are starters we have found to be terrific ($6.50). Daily soups like roasted vegetable gazpacho, vichyssoise or chowders are $3.75 bowl or $2.75 a cup.
Entrées include lobster roll with fries ($12.95 at lunch, $13.95 at dinner), a feast of succulent meat in a non-greasy base. Blackened swordfish or salmon, coated lightly with Johnson's own special spice mix and an orange, garlic and cilantro sauce ($14.95) is so delicate that it melts in the mouth. At lunchtime the blackened fish becomes a tasty sandwich for $7.95. We also tried a Cobb salad which came beautifully prepared with sliced tomato, avocado, hard-boiled egg, bacon and thinly sliced chicken breast ($6.95).
One of Aqua's most popular lunch specials is the grilled smoked turkey and smoked mozzarella sandwich with sun-dried tomatoes and scallion mayonnaise ($5.95), served on homestyle bread from Meriano's in Guilford. We found this to be an inventive and very satisfying sandwich which came with finely shredded cole slaw and rustic-style french fries.
All desserts are house-made by Johnson, including special ice creams and sorbets such as peanut butter or berry ($4). Crème brulée, white chocolate mousse flourless chocolate cake and tiramisu are $4.50. There is a children's menu averaging $3.75 an item including fries. Regular coffee is $1.25; espresso $1.75 and cappuccino $2.50.
The bar, always a focal point of this venue, has also been spiffed up. The full bar offers such intriguing beverages as a “Frozen Stoli Popsicle” for $4.50. Garth Corbett knows his wines, and the wine list has some good buys. Starting at $16, the list displays a good selection of Californian, French, Italian and Australian wines by their characteristics like “ripe, full-bodied” or “soft and fruity.” Glasses can be had from $3; domestic beer from $2.50 and imported from $3.
We found this newcomer to be an agreeable new lunch venue, suitable for both quiet conversation and office celebrations. Rob Johnson and Garth Corbett plan to stay open year-round (except for January) and will be tantalizing our taste buds with some new, exciting offerings this fall and winter.
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