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A Feast in the East
From ingredients to presentation,
Alforno's got it all
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Business New Haven
12/4/1995
By: Angelina Anderman
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Alforno Brick Oven Pizzeria & Ristorante, 1654 Boston Post Road (Saybrook Post Shopping Center), Old Saybrook (203-399-4166). Open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily.
On the eastern fringes of our readership area lies an interesting sleeper of a lunchtime oasis. Alforno originally opened only for dinner, but this past summer, in response to requests from loyal patrons, owner Bob Zemmel launched his lunch menu. From a successful array of dinnertime favorites, he selected some of the most popular dishes and adapted them for the speed- and value-driven lunch crowd. And the concept works.
The ristorante itself has recently undergone a metamorphosis. New, comfortable banquettes have replaced chairs, marble tabletops and counters have replaced ersatz and a wonderful, contemporary painted glass mural by local artist Anita Holland-Maritz graces the walls where once hung pasta prints. The Italian tile floor lends an authentic air and is so much more attractive (not to mention sanitary) than careworn carpet (although lethal on dropped equipment). The gigantic parking lot in front which supports Benny's anchor store is a big plus for patrons.
The quality of Alforno's ingredients is first class, and it shows throughout the menu. The chicken served is always Bell & Evans. For example, a roasted chicken sandwich on house-baked Italian bread or focaccia with plum tomatoes, lettuce, Asiago dressing with a side order of pasta or fries ($5.95) is an absolute favorite of mine. The breads are baked fresh nightly in the pizza oven, while the pizza dough rises ready for the next day's offerings. There are seven other sandwiches on the same breads for $3.95 and $4.95.
The Alforno house salad - another rave from regulars - with red, green leaf, Romaine and radicchio torn into small bits and dressed with good olive oil, wine vinegar, Asiago cheese, Dijon mustard and fresh herbs is $3.25 (add $2 for grilled chicken breast and $3 for grilled shrimp). A Caesar is $4.95, with the same premiums for chicken or shrimp. Pizza Express is a personal-size pizza served with the house salad or a cup of hearty Tuscan bean soup or broccoli bisque ($4.95).
Specialty pizzas like bianca alla Romana with caramelized onions, European bacon, thyme, mozzarella or wild mushrooms (three kinds) and sun-dried tomatoes are $8.95 and $10.95, respectively, for a 10 inch crispy taste of heaven. There are more traditional pizzas too, including white clam or broccoli ricotta or just good old tomato and two cheeses. These come in three sizes, 12-, 15- and 18-inch, ranging from $6.95 to $18.95. A slice of the tomato and double cheese is $1.95.
Lunchtime pasta specials are the real treat here. We had penne with roasted chicken (Bell & Evans, of course) in Tuscan tomato sauce and rigatoni with grilled sausage, each served with the house salad ($6.95) with plenty left to take home. The same day, there were two freshly made lasagna offerings, one meat and one veggie, both with bechamel sauce, also $6.95. Alforno's lasagna is cut directly from the pan, not zapped in a microwave, so that it's incredibly hot and imbedded in the dish. Highly recommended.
A good range of well priced Italian and California wines are offered by the glass starting at $3.50. Cappuccino is $2.50, espresso $1.50 and regular coffee or tea a buck.
So, if you are located east of New Haven, it is worth a trip to Exit 66 off I-95 for an excellent lunch and if you can't make it that far, plan on going for dinner.
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