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Three-Time Winner
Tré Scalini is a Wooster Street discovery
Tré Scalini, 100 Wooster Street, New Haven (777-3373). Open (lunch) 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. weekdays; (dinner) 5-9 p.m. daily.
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Business New Haven
11/6/1995
By: Angelina Anderman
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In search of pizza or otherwise, a visit to Wooster Street is always a gastronomical adventure - New Haven's answer to Greenwich Village. Our recent foray was particularly anticipatory, as we were headed for its newest darling, Tré Scalini. We were not disappointed.
Situated at the farthest end of Wooster Street, Tré Scalini has its own parking lot around the corner, where the entrance is also located. There is also an enclosed patio for summer dining which, if the interior is any indication, is probably very attractive in season.
Tré Scalini is a pretty place, indeed. Primrose and pale green with leafy green and yellow half-drapes, dark green undertones and splashes of red offset by large, framed bright flower prints. Fresh flowers, tablecloths and cloth napkins complete the picture.
Its surroundings would lead one to assume: Expensive Lunch Ahead. Not so. Tré Scalini's luncheon menu has been designed to attract the working community of New Haven and environs. After all, who most deserves a break - us, right? The menu is small in dimensions but large in content. Carefully crafted (with correct spellings, for a pleasant change), all items, from antipasti to piatti forte, weigh in at between $5.50 and $7.50.
One might think these would be small portions to tempt lunch patrons with a chance to savor what they can enjoy in full force at a future dinner. Wrong. These are for full portions of everything. So full that they might show up in your fridge for dinner - if they weren't so delicious that putting the fork aside until the plate is clean is almost an impossibility.
We led off with polenta with gorgonzola, wild mushrooms in a light tomato purée ($6) - a soup-plate full of heaven, mouth-watering mussels ($5.50) and insalatina caprese, fresh mozzarella (the real kind) over ripe tomato with basil and oil dressing ($6.50). Half a loaf of warm, country-style bread for dipping in olive oil was consumed rapidly and replaced. Selecting a main course was difficult. As a pasta (farinacci, to give it the correct collective title) fan for lunch and not for dinner consumption, I had farfalle with smoked salmon in a pink cream sauce ($6.50). Al dente and loaded with salmon, it was a great choice, as was the penne alla norcina with sausage and basil ($6). This made it to our companion's fridge for a terrific dinner.
Our third choice was scallopini di vitello al Matteo, sautéed veal with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, wild mushrooms and sage in a white wine sauce ($7). A wonderful mixture of flavors and textures, there are several veal dishes which all sound as appetizing and a must-try on future visits.
The menu has three chicken dishes including petto di pollo ($6.50), an all-time favorite of mine. Seven more farinacci dishes including a gnocchi, five fish entrées (offering interesting items like tilapia and monkfish and four grilled items, one lamb, one pork and two steak items) complete the menu (steaks are market-priced).
Desserts were out of the question, but we spied the four ladies seated next to us consuming what could only be described as a gargantuan portion of chocolate cake. We found out that it cost $4.75, as did other desserts. We finished with a perfectly cappuccino ($3). Espresso is $2. Sodas are $1.25 and a large glass of excellent Italian wine is $3.75. Regular coffee or tea is $1.25.
If you think this sounds like a rave review, you're right. We unreservedly recommend lunch at Tré Scalini, sooner rather than later, before fame overcomes tranquillity.
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