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Northern Hideaway
Eclectic menu rewards search for unassuming D'Errico's D'Errico's, 343 Washington Avenue, North Haven (203-239-8051). Open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. weekdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. weekends. Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
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Business New Haven
10/23/1995
By: Angelina Anderman
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If you shoot by too fast, you could miss D'Errico's, a small, free-standing building on Washington Avenue in North Haven. However, it's the sign you notice, a catchy number with turquoise letters on a pink background, a Southwestern touch in the Northeast.
D'Errico's is a true find if you work in the North Haven area, as it has some creative menu items for what initially appears to be a small, local hangout. The restaurant and bar area are both cozy (a polite way of saying small), and because of the odd way it has been portioned off, the restaurant strikes you as a little dark and dull. Perhaps when it has been open longer, Joe D'Errico can extend his Southwestern theme with some brighter colors and a bit more light.
Décor notwithstanding, the atmosphere is very pleasant and the waitstaff charming and efficient. If you are in a hurry, they will serve you accordingly. Not only that, they actually understand the menu items, know all the specials and sell them effectively without peering at a slip of paper or retreating to the kitchen to seek counsel. There is a comfortable feeling about D'Errico's, and the food is good too.
The menu is divided into four sections: Mediterranean, Northern Italian, Southwestern and spa dishes. Most items come in two sizes, full and half, priced accordingly. The waitstaff always inquire as to the size you prefer, and at lunchtime this is a sensible tactic, as the portions are on the large size. Additionally, on the back of the menu are listed very interesting sandwiches which have proven delicious. Turkey and brie ($5.95), house-roasted turkey breast with melted brie on a French baguette with honey mustard sauce, is one of my favorites but could use a tad more brie. Prosciutto and gorgonzola on a baguette with calamata olives and roasted peppers ($5.95) is terrific and a muffuletta ( New Orleans-style muffin) with corned beef, salami, ham and two cheeses with a vegetable dressing ($6.95) is wonderful. There are usually a couple of daily special sandwiches (reflecting what the kitchen has readily available); a couple of times these have been a little dry. (This can be helped with extra mayo, hastily brought by the waitstaff.) Also on the dry side was a hamburger, which came with panchetta, cheddar, mushrooms, jalapeño peppers or gorgonzola ($5.95). But these are mistakes easily fixed. All sandwiches come with a choice of fries or potato of the day (such as red bliss salad) and a selection of cold salad or pasta items. A Caesar salad with grilled salmon is $7.95 and grilled chicken is $5.95.
Several items from the main menu sounded interesting: an appetizer of grilled polenta with wild mushroom Margherita sauce came with homemade foccacchio served with herby olive oil ($5.95); black bean and sundried tomatoes with arugala and garlic basil sauce over penne ($8.95 half; $13.95 full); Southwestern marinated pork chops pan-seared with black bean salsa and ancho chile glaze ($9.95 half; $14.95 full); and Oaxacan grilled chicken with roasted vegetables, mild red chiles and arugala from the spa offerings ($9.95 half; $14.95 full).
Desserts are offered, but we deferred to coffees. Regular coffee or tea is $1 and sodas or iced tea $1.75 (all come with unlimited refills). Espresso is $2.95 and cappuccino $3.50. A glass of house wine starts at $3.75, and there is a full bar from above which a large TV screen shines down.
Starting this month, D'Errico's offers Sunday brunch, which will fill a void in the area, especially if you are a 24-hour resident. It will be $13.95 (less for children) for what sounds to be an interesting spread.
D'Errico's is well worth a visit because of its unusual offerings and its friendly, calm and discreet atmosphere. You can definitely talk business or dish the dirt without fear of being discovered - all the requisites for a perfect lunch venue.
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