MILFORD — There’s nothing like the taste of home cooking. And for Luciano Magliulo, that means homemade soups, sauces, even pasta made from scratch.
A native of Italy, Magliulo began learning the art of cooking from relatives while growing up there. He’s now brought that traditional approach to Milford with Al Fresco Café & Bakery, his new business. The grand opening took place May 4.
“We’re trying to promote the concept of fresh pasta,” says Magliulo about what he believes sets Al Fresco apart from other restaurants.
“Everything is hand-made the old-fashioned way,” adds Magliulo’s daughter, Michela Tapia, who serves as baker. “We want people to know all our pastries have fresh ingredients. We use no mixes.”
Located at 2 Schooner Lane, Al Fresco is ideally situated, says Magliulo. “We’re just by the water. It’s a nice location.”
For a man who grew up in Naples and left home for the first time onboard a ship, the location may also evoke memories.
“My grandfather was a chef, and I went to restaurant school in Italy,” recalls Magliulo. But opportunities there were limited, so he left home at age 17 to work on a cruise ship. It was a rather prosaic plunge, but he didn’t mind, he says.
“I started working as a dishwasher because in Italy you start on the bottom. That’s one of the reasons I came to this country, too — there’s more opportunity.”
Magliulo landed in New York in 1976. He worked as a purchasing agent at the legendary Rainbow Room before opening his own New York tablecloth Italian restaurant, La Camelia, in 1980. In 1984 he moved to Stamford and, after several years commuting between his Connecticut home and New York business, tired of the travel. Magliulo sold the New York business and opened another restaurant, Mona Lisa Ristorante, in Stamford in 1992. He sold that business last October, enabling him to set his sights on this latest venture. Al Fresco is Magliulo’s third restaurant.
“I’m starting a new adventure,” he says.
Over the years, the food business has turned out to be an extended-family endeavor.
“There are two brothers in the business, too, in New York City,” notes Magliulo. “One owns a restaurant, the other is in retail — he imports all of his food from Italy. So it’s all in the family.”
Al Fresco specialties include lasagna, chicken parmagiana, sausage and meatballs, and stuffed peppers. Tapia creates a range of cakes and pies, including Boston cream, carrot, quatro leches and strawberry.
In addition to soups, sauces, pastas and desserts, Al Fresco offers cold platters and take-out meals. It also is open for breakfast. Summer hours are 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays, and 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday through Sunday.
Along with his daughter, Magliulo’s nephew, Daniel Pani, also works at Al Fresco, managing the front of the house.
“We’re a small family business,” says Magliulo. “My concern is that people understand what we’re all about — fresh ingredients and fresh food.”
“Hopefully,” adds Tapia, “customers can taste it when they eat it.”
— Felicia Hunter
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